Starting the day in Hatay is not just about filling your stomach; it is about savoring a centuries-old culture, the aroma of fresh sesame seeds straight out of the oven, and the warmth of neighborly hospitality. In the first part of our series, we take a closer look at the breakfast ritual of Antakya, which rises like the morning sun over its vibrant tables, and the indispensable main characters of this feast.
When thinking of Hatay cuisine, sizzling tray kebabs (Tepsi Kebabı) or eye-catching, syrup-infused Künefe usually come to mind. However, the true soul of this culinary wonderland lies in the breakfast tables that awaken with the first light of day. In Antakya, breakfast is not a rushed meal; it is a true ceremony that brings families, friends, and flavors together.
The First Good News from the Bakery: Biberli Ekmek (Flatbread with Red Pepper Paste)
If one were to describe the morning scent of Antakya, it would undoubtedly be the aroma of Biberli Ekmek rising from the neighborhood bakeries. A unique mixture of çökelek (cottage cheese), red pepper paste, wild thyme (zahter), onions, cumin, and a generous splash of olive oil is spread over thinly rolled dough. Baked for just a few minutes in a oak-wood-fired oven, Biberli Ekmek is the essential entry ticket to an Antakya breakfast.
The Blend of Spices and Milk: Sürk (Spiced Sun-Dried Cheese)
Looking at the table, small dried spheres coated with a layer of aromatic spices immediately catch your eye: Sürk. A traditional preservation method practiced for centuries, sürk is prepared by kneading fresh cottage cheese with black pepper, allspice, cumin, nutmeg, hot chili flakes, and olive oil, then sun-drying it into shape. Served on a plate drizzled with authentic olive oil, it is almost impossible to resist dipping your warm bread right into it.
Healing from the Soil to the Plate: Zahter and Halhalı Olives
You will notice two small bowls sitting side by side on the breakfast spread: one filled with powdered dry zahter (wild thyme mix) and the other with the region’s finest cold-pressed olive oil. Dipping your bread first into the olive oil and then into the zahter brings the aromatic herbs of the Hatay mountains straight to your table. Accompanying this duo are crushed local halhalı olives, offering a pleasant, slightly tangy balance to the palate.
The Warmest Form of Yogurt: Tuzlu Yoğurt (Salted Yogurt)
Hatay’s famous Tuzlu Yoğurt, made from goat’s milk, is enjoyed at breakfast both plain and drizzled with olive oil and red pepper flakes. Developed as a traditional method to extend the shelf life of fresh milk across months, this strained, cooked yogurt provides one of the most refreshing touches to the morning spread.
💡 MASTER’S SECRET (Ahmet Usta / Baker of 35 Years)
"The cheese mixture for Biberli Ekmek shouldn’t be too dry. Adding local olive oil binds the flavor and keeps the bread soft after baking. Authentic Biberli Ekmek must be enjoyed fresh and steaming hot right out of the oven."
👨🍳 FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO TRY AT HOME: Quick Antakya-Style Sürk Salad
Ingredients:
1 piece of dried sürk cheese (or dry cottage cheese/ricotta)
1 small onion (finely diced)
1 tomato (diced)
A few sprigs of fresh mint or parsley
Generous amount of Hatay olive oil
Instructions: Crumble the sürk cheese in a bowl using a fork. Add the diced onion, tomato, and finely chopped greens. Pour a liberal amount of extra virgin olive oil over the top and mix gently. Serve with hot flatbread or pita.
